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First, Take Stock Before You Unpack

Finding a trunk in a loft is one of those rare pleasures that makes all the dusty work worthwhile. Perhaps it belonged to a great-aunt, or it came with the house and has sat untouched under the eaves for decades. Before you lift anything out, resist the urge to shake it free of cobwebs or give it a good airing on the washing line. Old textiles are far more fragile than they look, and a little patience at this stage saves a great deal of heartbreak later.

Lay a clean white sheet on a table in a room with good daylight but no direct sun. Work in small batches, and photograph each item as it comes out of the trunk — not just for the record, but so you can remember what was folded with what. Provenance matters with vintage linens and quilts, and a quick note about which layer each piece came from is surprisingly useful when you later want to know whether a stain is historical or new.

Wear cotton gloves if you have them. The oils on your hands are harmless to you but not to a hundred-year-old silk. If you find anything actively damp, mouldy or smelling strongly of mildew, isolate it in a well-ventilated room away from the rest of your finds and deal with it separately.

Gently Vacuuming Delicate Fabrics

Surface dust is the enemy of old cloth, and a vacuum is your friend — used carefully. The trick is to never let the nozzle touch the fabric. Instead, place a piece of fine netting, nylon tulle or even a clean piece of muslin over the textile, and hold the vacuum nozzle just above it. The suction lifts the dust through the mesh without dragging at loose threads or frayed edges.

• Use the lowest suction setting, or a vacuum with a variable control. A crevice tool with a mesh cover works well for tight corners of quilting.
• Work in the direction of the weave, not against it, and never scrub back and forth over embroidery or beading.
• Support the fabric flat on a table rather than holding it up in the air, so the weight of the cloth does not pull on weak seams.
• Empty the vacuum canister or change the bag first. Blowing old dust back onto a clean textile rather defeats the purpose.

For very fragile lace, skip the vacuum entirely and use a soft sable artist's brush to flick dust towards the edge of the piece, then vacuum the table around it. If a textile is crumbling at the touch, stop and consider consulting a conservator — some pieces are simply beyond home care.

Sunlight, Damp and the Two Great Enemies

Ultraviolet light is the quiet destroyer of vintage textiles. It fades dyes, weakens fibres and yellows whites in a matter of months, not years. Never display a quilt, sampler or lace shawl on a wall that receives direct sun, and be wary of south-facing windows even with nets. If you want to enjoy a piece on display, rotate it every few months and keep the room's brightest hours shaded.

Damp is the other great enemy, and in a period home it is often lurking behind the very walls you would like to hang things on. Solid brick and stone walls wick moisture inward, particularly in older properties without a damp course. A quilt pressed against an exterior wall will draw that damp into its fibres and, before long, develop brown foxing spots and a musty smell that is very hard to shift.

A simple rule: keep textiles at least a hand's width away from any external wall, and never store them directly against a chimney breast or in a cellar. If your loft or spare room feels cold and clammy to the touch, address the ventilation before you store anything precious there.

Storing Quilts, Lace and Linens Properly

Cardboard boxes and plastic bags are the two most common storage mistakes. Cardboard is acidic and will stain and embrittle fabric over time; plastic traps moisture and encourages mould. Instead, invest in acid-free tissue paper and plain cotton or calico bags, which let the textile breathe while keeping dust and light at bay.

• Quilts and blankets: fold loosely with crumpled acid-free tissue in the creases, then roll rather than fold if space allows. Store flat in a cotton bag or a breathable linen press.
• Lace and fine linen: layer between sheets of acid-free tissue in a shallow box, and never stack heavy items on top.
• Wedding dresses and christening gowns: pad the shoulders and sleeves with tissue so the weight of the fabric does not crease sharply, then box in archival-quality materials.
• Anything with metal buttons or hooks: wrap those separately in tissue so they do not rust onto the cloth.

Label each bag with a soft pencil on a cotton tag — never stick tape or write directly on the textile. Store in a cool, dark, dry place with steady temperature, ideally between 15 and 20°C, and check your stored pieces once a year for signs of moth, damp or insect damage.

Moths, Mould and What to Do About Them

Moths love wool, silk, fur and feathers, and they love dark, undisturbed places even more. Cedar blocks and lavender bags are pleasant but limited; the most reliable defence is cleanliness, airflow and regular inspection. Vacuum your stored textiles gently each year, refold along different lines to prevent permanent creases, and let the pieces breathe for an hour in a shaded room before returning them.

If you spot mould, do not brush it — that spreads the spores. Instead, isolate the item, improve ventilation and seek advice from a textile conservator for anything valuable. For light surface mould on sturdy cotton, a conservator may suggest controlled drying and careful cleaning, but never attempt bleach or harsh detergents on antique cloth. They will remove the stain and the fabric along with it.

Above all, handle your finds with unhurried hands. These textiles have already survived a century in a trunk; with a little care, they will survive another in your keeping.